The weather played with the nerves of all student-athletes taking part in the Koper 2024 FISU World University Championship Sport Climbing. But as we all know, it takes more than a few drops of rain to discourage them from reaching the top.
Slovenia really loves sport climbing and this passion showed every day in Koper. Great sporting spirit and a warm yet competitive atmosphere bound all participants together as they prepared for their respective events. The student-athletes from Japan and Italy took most medals – with Japan’s Ao Yurikusa finishing second of the boulder event and third of the lead! – but the competition was still fierce.
The organising committee didn’t have to deal with complicated paths or heights, but with the moody weather, that went from unstable at the beginning to really sunny in the middle before turning chilly and rainy for the last day of competition, preventing the lead finals from being streamed live. But armed with patience, umbrellas and a lot of positive attitude, participants and spectators all managed to enjoy the excitement of the competition.
Boulder action
Boulders
It was difficult to imagine a better start for the Italian team in Koper. After the first two finals, the Azzurri squad has obtained two victories and one third place. Only one “c” and Japan’s Ao Yurikusa separated Niccolò Anthony Salvatore and Nicolò Sartirani, who finished first and third of the Boulder event. “Everything went very well, smiled the new FISU University World Champion. I had a lot of fun on the boulders, as they required almost any type of climbing style. It was a great competition with a high level of competitors!”
Their teammate Giulia Medici won the women’s competition, with Sandra Lettner (Austria) and Roxana Weinard (Germany) claiming second and third place, respectively. “It went well since I won, joked Medici. Anyway, beyond the first place, I am happy and satisfied with my attitude, which I had been looking for a while: I finally managed to find myself again, I had fun throughout the whole competition.”
Results
Men:
1. Niccolò Anthony Salvatore (Italy)
2. Ao Yurikusa (Japan)
3. Nicolò Sartirana (Italy)
Women:
1. Giulia Medici (Italy)
2. Sandra Lettner (Austria)
3. Roxana Wienand (Germany)
Speed action
Speed Climbing
The finals in speed climbing were truly exciting, featuring many world-class athletes with Olympic experience despite their young age. The titles went to the Far East, while Italy can be proud of securing two third-place finishes. In the men’s category, the victory went to Japan, with Ryo Omasa, Yaroslav Tkach (Ukraine) taking second and Luca Robbiati (Italy) third.
“Two years ago I won the medal in boulder, explained the freshly crowned Omasa. This time I competed in boulder and speed and unfortunately did not make the final in the first event. Therefore I really wanted a medal in speed and I am really happy to have achieved this important goal.”
Jimin Jeong from the Republic of Korea claimed the gold in the women’s event, with Lijuan Deng (China) and Giulia Randi (Italy) claiming respectively second and third place.
Results
Men:
1. Ryo Omasa (Japan)
2. Yaroslav Tkach (Ukraine)
3. Luca Robbiati (Italy)
Women:
1. Jimin Jeong (Republic of Korea)
2. Lijuan Deng (China)
3. Giulia Randi (Italy)
Lead action
Lead
The last day of the event was influenced by the rain. The Lead competition and the closing ceremony were shortened and simplified. The day was dominated by a country that has a sun on its flag: Japan! Five medals out of six went to the Japanese with only the Slovenian climber Rosa Rekar “spoiling” the full house with her third place in the female competition. Tomona Takao and Nonoha Kume claimed the first and second place respectively. The male’s podium was composed by Hidemasa Nishida, Mototaka Ishizu and Ao Yurikuza.
Results
Men:
1. Hidemasa Nishida (Japan)
2. Mototaka Ishizu (Japan)
3. Ao Yurikusa (Japan)
Women:
1. Tomona Takao (Japan)
2. Nonoha Kume (Japan)
3. Rosa Rekar (Slovenia)
Almost all the action was streamed live on , the bad weather conditions preventing te filming of the Lead event on Thursday. You can find all the results, more information and pictures on the event’s .
Congratulations to all participants, volunteers and officials for a superb event. Let’s hope the spectator’s necks aren’t too sore!
Written by Thérèse Courvoisier, information and pictures courtesy of the organising committee.
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